Two Weeks in: Costal Spain
After a week here — my second trip to this place — I'm sharing some reflections on the culture, food, and climate of this far-west European nation. Here are my tips and tricks for a life well lived on the Spanish isles and mainland.
The vibe: A lot of things jump out here, but one I learned is that Spain runs 1.5 to 2.3 hours ahead of solar time. This is because, during the Second World War, Spain set its clocks to match Germany — despite actually sitting in the same time zone as England. So the sun goes down at 9 p.m. here, and lunch is served at 2.
What's interesting is that everyone attributes this to some "wild Spanish culture," but the reality is that if you stay up until midnight here drinking, it's only 10 p.m. according to your biological clock. So in fact the only thing that's weird is the clocks.
Beyond this, you can feel a certain sense of "we conquered the world, and we know it." The Spanish have such a huge footprint across South America and the western expansion that there's an interesting feeling to being in the homeland of all that conquest. If we set the bloodshed aside, what's clear is that the culture of Spain has touched every corner of the earth and shaped the history of the world. These words, actions, and customs have changed how people live all over the planet — and you feel it when you're here, especially if you've been to places like Cusco or Puerto Vallarta. There's something that connects all the tendrils of the former colonies, now countries of their own, and the architecture and music and food of every Spanish-speaking place I've traveled to is unmistakable when you step foot on this land. You feel the pain, the anguish, and also the collective connection of it all. What an interesting world we live in, where a country the size of Texas has a cultural footprint covering nearly 25% of the globe.
But I digress.
The Costal Mainland
It's hot here, but not as hot as people may think. I'm from California, and for someone from inland Cali or somewhere like Austin or New York, you won't find the climate too harsh. The best places to be, though, seem to be the coastal regions — Barcelona, or the Costa del Sol in the south — as they have the combo of heat plus a bit of sea breeze all summer. I'd call the climate here mild and quite nice compared to the inland areas.
So where to go?
Málaga
A top city, easily. It's one of the oldest on the continent, with so many different cultures having ruled over it in the last 2,800 years. You really feel the history and mishmash of it all, while it still somehow reads as a cohesive, vibrant, cheerful whole. It's also not too big — just over two million in the greater area — with lots of old-world streets and markets to make you feel at home if you like cobblestones and narrow walkways.
The food: Amazing here, probably the best I've had in Spain. You get all sorts of restaurants, and everyone is out until midnight eating. The vibe is young and free, with nightclubs and people dancing in the streets, but you've still got the old-world charm all around you.
The beach: It's okay — I'd give it a 5/10, just because it feels industrial, like you're swimming in a city. But you can venture north or south for more pristine, hidden coastal gems.
Marbella
People really talk this one up, and I get a little confused as to why. It does have a charm — almost an end-of-the-world feeling, with distant views of Moroccan mountain ranges across the water and a very low-key vibe compared to the bigger cities. I'll say this: there's something in the air here that you'll like. It has a magic to it. But again, the beaches are pretty, yet nothing compared to the islands or other parts of the EU.
The food: Great — maybe even better than Málaga, but only because everyone's slowed down here, and the restaurants have a kindness to them that feels indicative of a smaller town. I found a lot of interesting spots, even top-notch Indian food served Spanish-style right on the water. Definitely worth a stop if you're already in southern Spain.
Barcelona
What a hip, cool, fun city. It's like the Portland, Oregon of Europe in my book — people on bikes, and protests over just about anything pro-people they can think of. Maybe it's because it was its own nation for so long, or that the city walls are so old, but you get off the plane here and feel like you're in the tropics inside a big, hip city all at once.
I love the vibe, and the cost of living is much lower than you'd expect. You could stay here a long time without spending much, and the food is great.
It's a no-brainer. I'd say it's the one stop to make on the mainland if you're on your way to the islands — and you won't miss too much if it's your only stop on a shorter trip. It has a lot of what the south offers, but with more convenience and a bigger, more vibrant city to explore.
Art: Off the chain. So many places to explore — old churches, museums, street art, music. Go here for the culture.
Food: As good as it gets for urban-meets-old-world. The hipper, US/LA-feeling café scene really shines here compared to the rest of the country. If you like health food, açaí bowls, and lots of modern choices, this city is for you.
Verdict: best coastal spots on the mainland, in order
- Barcelona — food, culture, nightlife, art
- Málaga — beach, food, old-world feel
- Marbella — resort town, slow, chill beach vibes
The Islands
When you hop off the boat or plane out here, you feel the shift immediately. You're on an island chain about 90 miles off the coast of Spain, sitting in this interesting mix of dry, humid, desert, and tropics. It kind of feels like Morocco and Hawaii had a baby. The culture is laid-back, full of young, hip tourists coming for beach and vacation time. There's a spiritual sense to the land, and you'll feel like staying a long while once you're here.
Mallorca
This is the one to go to. You get off the boat in Palma and think, wow, this is magic. There's an old, castle-like façade along the promenade, old trees everywhere, and you just want to jump into the bustle of it all. People are friendly, it feels like a proper city, and the nice views and beautiful weather are an easy walk away.
Ibiza
Not as nice as Mallorca, but it has the same old-world-meets-new vibe. The main town is going off all day and night with street markets, food, and culture. You feel like you're on a party island, but you can also step away into the countryside and be on some remote tropical beach in under an hour. The whole island is easy to get around, and each region has its own charm.
Menorca
I wouldn't recommend it. It's very flat and basic compared to the other two — you feel like you're on a small rock rather than a mountain in the ocean. The food is good and the vibe is similar, but you miss all the energy of Ibiza and all the nature of Mallorca. I don't see a real reason to go unless you're staying at a resort with its own special swimming spot. The beaches, food, and culture on the other islands are just way better — and this one's the most expensive to reach and stay on, since it's more remote.
The food
Great on all the islands, but Mallorca is the best. You'll have some of the best food I've ever eaten, in some of the best locations you can imagine. Come ready to eat everything and dig into the uniquely Balearic cuisine that makes these islands famous. If you want hipper food, go to Ibiza — but Mallorca has my heart, easily a top-five food destination in all of Europe for me. It holds a candle to Italy and has more flavor than the mainland. Go here for the food, for sure.
Getting there
It's a little odd to reach. The best move is to pick one island and commit. You can find cheap nonstops, but island-hopping can be more of a hassle than getting there in the first place. I'd recommend flying into Barcelona for two or three days, then doing a week on Mallorca and flying out from there. You'll see the best parts, and you can hit Ibiza on the way out if you want more nightlife and culture. If you want to party, it's definitely worth a stop before you leave.
Summary
One to two weeks here is ideal. Skip Madrid, do this coastal-and-island hop, and I think you'll be glad you did.
Cheers.